Into Huacho and Cajamarca - Training Doctors to Save Mothers and Babies

3 December 2017

This was a busy week of travel and coordination for the courses "Helping Babies Breath" and "Helping Mothers Survive" in two cities. Our team included four American doctors and four Peruvian doctors that taught both courses in Huacho and Cajamarca.

We ordered vans to haul our team the 3-hour drive to Huacho. We then drove back to Lima and flew on to Cajamarca.

These courses are taught each year in two cities around Peru where they have experienced high rates of infant and maternal mortality. Around 50 local doctors were trained in each of these two cities in techniques that will save lives during childbirth.

Helping Babies Breath


About 30 percent of babies around the world are born with breathing problems and have to be helped. Without intervention, many of these babies die. This part of the course provided hands-on training with mannequins and respirators that we donated so students of the class could teach the course to colleagues back at their remote health centers.

We divided into groups with each of our doctors leading the discussion at each table.

Students practiced using life-like mannequins and hand-held respirators. We filled the mannequins with water to make them feel real.

The doctors from our team did the training - we just made sure the courses went off according to schedule. 

The weeks leading up to the training were very intense as we arranged all travel, arranged the buildings for the courses, arranged meals for everyone, etc. We had also previously shipped 124 boxes of supplies (62 boxes to each of the two training locations) so students could take the materials and mannequins with them to repeat the training.

We were the only non-doctors at the training, so we observed or served as runners during the course to get items that were needed to keep the course going.

Time is critical after a baby is born. Knowing what to do when a baby doesn't breath will make the difference in whether the baby lives or dies.

Every student practiced using the mannequins that they will all take back to their health centers so they can teach this course to others.

Helping Mothers Survive


This part of the course was new this year and taught techniques to save mothers from bleeding to death after giving birth. In one city in Peru last year, 5,000 babies were born during a 9-month period, but 90 mothers died during that same period from post-partum hemorrhages. Techniques taught during this part of the course are designed to stop the bleeding and save lives.

Simulators during the "Helping Mothers Survive" course included a strap-on pod complete with a baby, umbilical cord, and placenta inside.

The simulations even included fake blood that students had to stop, along with umbilical cords that had to be tied and cut.

The courses were taught in our chapels in both cities. It was really convenient in Huacho because our chapel was right across the street from the regional health offices. In Cajamarca, our chapel was just a few blocks away from the regional health offices. 

Our chapel in Huacho where we held the training, just across the street from the Regional Health Office.

During the training in Cajamarca at the end of the week, we got an unexpected surprise when Lily Davalos, a part-time welfare service missionary we work with in Lima, called us. She and her husband were in Cajamarca on vacation, and she was calling to see if we needed any help. They came by in time to help us with a number of tasks, including distributing the lunches to the 50 participants and the instructors. This was an unexpected surprise.

Jose and Lily Davalos showed up by surprise and helped us out in Cajamarca. Lily is a part-time service missionary from our office in Lima.

Those that completed the courses received certificates as evidence they participated in this life-saving training.

Successful training in Huacho - students and instructors. The regional governor in Huacho even showed up for the closing ceremony to show support for this life-saving training.

Around Huacho


Huacho is located on the coast, a 3-hour drive north of Lima. We rented two vans to get all 10 of us up here for the two days of training. We walked two blocks down to the coast during a break in the training one day to see their fleet of fishing boats

Fleet of fishing boats in the harbor at Huacho. 

Interestingly, during the training in Huacho, there was a demonstration in the street in front of the Regional Health Office (which just happened to be across the street from our chapel where the training took place). About 200 people showed up, shouting and chanting about lack of pay from the government for health workers. The strange thing is that the head of the regional health office, who was the target of the demonstration, was across the street in our chapel going through the training course. He must have been inspired to attend!

Demonstration in front of the regional health office. Unbeknownst to the demonstrators was that the health office director was across the street in our chapel going through the training. It is a good thing they didn't know that or they might have stormed our chapel.

On the 3-hour drive back to Lima after the training course, we came upon an unexpected surprise: an SUV exploded in front of us on the freeway and caught on fire. The flames were so intense that no one could pass. We all sat, parked on the freeway, for a long time until the fire department arrived and put out the flames, allowing us to pass by. We finally reached our apartment in Lima after 10 p.m., got some sleep, then had to leave by noon the next day to catch a flight to Cajamarca.

The burning vehicle that exploded in front of us. We never learned if anyone was killed or injured. We waited in a long line of traffic on the freeway until firefighters extinguished the flames and we were allowed to continue.

Into Cajamarca


Cajamarca is a beautiful city high in the Andes Mountains at 9,000 ft. Francisco Pizarro defeated the Incas in this city. Lush and green, there were fields of milk cows all around the city. The best cheese and milk in Peru comes from Cajamarca.

Flying over Cajamarca - a lush and green city high in the Andes Mountains.

Architecture of the cathedrals and other buildings in Cajamarca is very Spanish.

View down the walkway leading to the town center, the Plaza de Armas.

Decorative stairs leading up to the view point and church of Cerro Santa Polonia.

Hats in Cajamarca


Many women in Cajamarca wear unusual hats that are huge. Everywhere we turned, there were women wearing these traditional hats.

Typical hand-woven straw hat worn by many women in Cajamarca.

Selling a few tiny apples on the sidewalk. You don't need an umbrella when you wear these hats.

Gigantic hat - you've got to be careful in a windstorm with this thing. Note the store with the bars. We have seen these in a few places in Peru. You go up to the bars, point to what you want, pay through the bars, and then you get your goods. Some places do this to prevent shoplifting and robbery.

Grandmother on the bus we rode. 

Several people (that we met on the street as well as merchants) told us that prices for these handmade hats start around $125 USD and go up to about $300. For people of limited means, this is a serious commitment to own one of these hats. Like a friend told me, "You can't buy a ranch when you spent everything you own on the hat."

Contrast of cultures - woman in traditional outfit begging for a handout from a man on his cell phone.

On her way to the market to sell herbs from her garden.

Taking a break from handicrafts to send a text message on her cell phone.

On a cold day in Cajamarca, it is best to bundle up. However, notice that this woman is barefoot. The skin on her feet must be like leather.

This was a very poor woman asking for alms in front of our hotel. She was so poor that she had no hat and no shoes.

These are more modern hats that are popular in regions outside of Cajamarca. These women were just visiting Cajamarca because they were the only ones we saw wearing these hats.

Women weren't the only ones with the hats. They just looked cooler than the hats the men wore.

This guy told me he typically gets about 3 years of use out of his hats before they get so dirty and beat up it is time to get a new one.

Ventanillas de Otuzco


On Saturday, we had a little free time before our flight. We took a taxi out of town to visit a burial site used by people who predated the Incas by thousands of years. These burial niches were carved into the soft volcanic rock and once held the remains of people who died long ago.

Ventanillas, which means 'little windows' in Spanish, held the remains of hundreds of deceased high-ranking people who died up to 3,500 years ago.

Hundreds of these burial niches line the cliff side. The Incas respected this burial site, but the Spaniards had no problem with removing the remains of the dead in search of gold and silver, which were often buried with the dead. After searching through the bodies, the Spaniards just threw out what was left (mostly bones), so there are no bodies left in the niches.

All that is left at this burial site are hundreds of empty niches which once held the bodies of the dead.

Virtually everyone in Peru has Spanish blood, but the Spaniards are not well regarded here for what they did to the native societies while in search of riches. The fact they tossed away the bodies buried here at the Ventanillas is just one more evidence of how Spaniards disregarded civilizations that had been here for millennia.

Farewell to Cajamarca


Cajamarca was an interesting city, far less touristy than most other Peruvian cities. It is off the beaten tourist path but has a special charm similar to Cusco and Arequipa. We will remember fondly the people and sites here.

Cathedral bells in Cajamarca

And so we returned home late Saturday night. We spent two nights in Lima and then leave tomorrow for the jungles of Pucallpa on a vision project. We pray for the strength to keep up this pace of travel, which sometimes wears heavy on us. Nevertheless, we came on this mission to serve, and we certainly get plenty of opportunities for that.


Thanksgiving in Peru, Panetón, and Biking around Lima

26 November 2017

Thanksgiving in Peru


This was our first Thanksgiving far from home. Peruvians in our area office made it a point to celebrate Thanksgiving with us so we would not feel bad about being away from family. Instead of calling it "Dia de Gracias" (day of thanks), they made us laugh by instead calling the holiday "Dia de Grazas" (day of fats, which sounds almost the same but may be a more correct description).

The day started out in our Area Office with a food celebration, including the apple strudel baked by Nadia Trejo (wife of Michael Trejo who we works with).

Thanksgiving in the Office - Apple Strudel, chips, cookies, Coke, and all our friends
(L to R: Sandy, Sister Lily Davalos, Alex Principe, Moroni Torres, Miguel Hurtado, Oscar Sanchez, Michael Trejo, and Marshall)

Apple Strudel - a great way to start Thanksgiving Day. 

Next stop on our food journey was a lunch trip to "El Llanero" restaurant ("The Lone Ranger") for some Venezuelan-Peruvian food. 

Thanksgiving lunch at the Venezuelan-Peruvian restaurant - Lomo Saltado (beef stirfry) and Chicken Milanese, not your typical turkey and stuffing diner, but very tasty.

Big Thanksgiving Dinner


That night, after work, we were invited to the home of President and Sister Amato, mission president of the Lima East Mission. They arrived a few months ago in Peru from Brazil (by way of Orlando, FL, where they had lived for 5 years). They invited more than 20 senior missionaries into their home for Thanksgiving dinner so we would all feel a little less homesick. We all brought side dishes and they cooked the turkeys and potatoes.

Sister Amato with the two turkeys she cooked for us - just like being back home.
Even the hors d'oeurves spoke to us of being back home.

Thanksgiving hors d'oeurves

What a crowd in the Amato's home for Thanksgiving dinner!

In all, for being halfway around the world, it was a good day for us.

Thanksgiving in Peru - We are most grateful we have this chance to serve.

3 Weeks of Travel - Humanitarian Projects


We continue to be super busy with more than 40 active humanitarian projects all around Peru. We travel all over Peru during the next 3 weeks for projects that include:
  • Conducting "Helping Babies Breath" / "Helping Mothers Survive" training courses for 100 doctors in the cities of Huacho and Cajamarca
  • Providing eye exams and glasses for about 1,000 children in the jungle city of Pucallpa
  • Completing the donation of school desks, water pump and tank, and clothing in an impoverished region near Nauta on the Amazon River
These next few weeks of travel will be very intense. It sometimes feels like Lima is just a layover point for us. We were glad we finished up all our project preparations this past week so we could focus on these back-to-back trips all around Peru.

Panetón - Holiday Celebration Food


In Peru, people celebrate the holidays and Christmas by eating Panetón. This is an Italian sweet bread that includes pieces of fruit. It is large - about the size of soccer ball.

Panetón is different than the typical solid fruit cake we have in North America. Although it includes dried fruit, the bread itself is light, spongy, and moist. It takes up to 3 days to make panetón because of the yeasts that are used in this traditional recipe and the multiple times that they let the bread rise.

Inside a loaf of panetón - spongy and light and filled with dried fruit. Our manager brought this loaf (about the size of a soccer ball) to share with us at the office.

Shelves in the grocery stores are stocked with more than a dozen varieties of this Christmas favorite treat. Peruvians start consuming Panetón about 2 months before Christmas.

Every store selling groceries sells many varieties of Panetón - the most popular holiday tradition in Peru.

Many panetónes come in cardboard boxes for safekeeping. This 900 gram (2 pound) loaf is typical.

Panetón also comes in small boxes - this one has chocolate chips instead of fruit.

Panetón is another yummy surprise we had never tried until coming to Peru. 

Biking around Lima


On our preparation day (Saturday), we love to travel cross town to the district of Miraflores and rent bikes. Now that the winter is finally over here in the Southern Hemisphere, we are enjoying sunshine while we bike our 9-mile loop through the city and along the coast.

Biking along the coast in the sunshine on our one day off that we get each week. 

We often stop along the way whenever we see something interesting. We stopped on this journey when I saw a tiny little Quechua Indian woman from high in the Andes selling her wares in the city park.

We stopped on our bike ride to buy some goods offered by this tiny little Quechua Indian woman. She only spoke a few words of Spanish - almost everything she spoke was in Quechua in a high-pitched, squeaky voice that sounded like she used helium to make her voice that high.

It is rare to find mountain people from the Andes who dress in traditional garb in the big city of Lima. These people are a few hundred miles from home, but they seem to come from worlds apart from the hustle-bustle fast-paced life of modern Lima.

I bought some "Kiwicha Balls" from the Indian woman. Kiwicha is a grain grown high in the Andes, similar to quinoa, which they pop and then mix with honey to form edible balls. The Kiwicha Balls were tasty but super hard - I felt like I was going to break a tooth eating one. I paid about $1 for a bag of five edible balls.

Kiwicha Balls - made from puffed kiwicha (similar to quinoa) and cemented together with honey.

Anyway, this tiny little Indian woman provided the cultural highlight of our day in the sun on our bikes.

Mazamorra Morada


Peruvians in our office are always telling us about tasty Peruvian treats we should be on the look-out to try.  One of these is called "mazamorra morada", a sweet purple corn pudding they sell at sidewalk stands around town.

The Mazamorra Morada stand where they sell the Purple Corn Pudding

We found a Mazamorra Morada stand today and ordered a bowl along with some rice pudding. Eating the Mazamorra Morada and the rice pudding reminded us of eating blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream.

A bowl of mazamorra morado - ready to take home and eat

The basic ingredient is purple corn, which is boiled with water, cinnamon, cloves, pineapple rind and chopped fruit, such as quince, plums and apples. Once the corn and other ingredients have passed their flavor to the water, they typically thinken with corn starch or sweet potato flour to give it the consistency of a really thick pudding. Then they sprinkle cinnamon and ground coconut on top. It is often served with rice pudding on the side.

Mazamorra Morada - it tasted like blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream.

A bowl of the mazamorra morada with a side of rice pudding sells for less than a dollar. It was a fun little treat.


So now the adventure of 3 weeks of non-stop travel begins for us as we journey to the northern coast, into the Andes Mountains, and into the jungle to finish up several of our big projects.


Glasses Delivery in Tarapoto, Medical Training Prep, Central Lima, and Soccer

19 November 2017

Glasses for Children in the Jungle


The final part of the Tarapoto vision project took place with the delivery of glasses for 791 children and adolescents in this high-jungle region. Deliveries took place all over the region in each of the schools for children that had been measured by our team of optometrists a few weeks ago.

Glasses lined up in front of students and parents waiting at one of the deliveries in the Tarapoto/Moyobamba area.

Mayors, government health leaders, and church leaders showed up for the deliveries in centers throughout the region. Carmen Tipian (shown here), our key health department contact and coordinator, addressed the parents and children at one of these deliveries.

The delivery ceremonies were key opportunities to pass out the glasses and stress proper care of the glasses to the parents and children (even though we had purposely bought scratch-resistant lenses, given how rough kids can be on their glasses).

Children were brought up one by one to get their glasses. Since we had already gone to the jungle on three previous trips, we asked our local church leader, Jimmy Guevara (right) to represent us at the ceremonies in both Tarapoto and Moyobamba.

The donation of glasses is a big deal in poor communities where just getting enough food onto the table at home is a challenge. Many of these children had prescriptions greater that 6 diopters (meaning they were functionally blind without the glasses). Being able to see for these children is a life-changing event.

These children will now be able to see the blackboard!
Poor vision is a leading cause for school dropout. When kids can't see in class, they fall behind, become discouraged, and look for excuses to dropout.

A child's first set of glasses - an exciting event.

The children had previously picked out their own frames from the selection we had our supplier bring. When kids pick out their own frames, they are more likely to actually wear their glasses.

Bringing all the optometrists into this jungle region from Lima to do the exams and then providing the glasses was a significant investment in the future for these children (although given the number of recipients that we had, we were able to negotiate really good prices - $25 USD total for an exam, frame, and lenses).

The glasses donations made it into the local  TV news programs and newspapers. This newspaper article put the donation on the front page, right next to the Peruvian national soccer team and the story of the body of the drug dealer found in the field of coca leaves. Our donation was big-time news in these communities.

This vision project in Tarapoto (the donation of glasses, the donation of medical equipment to the new hospital, and the cataract surgeries by the U.S. doctor) helped many people. It was one of the best projects we have worked on during our mission.

Farewell to the high-jungle of Tarapoto - the beauty of this region only added to the charm of this vision project.

Course Prep - Helping Babies Breath, Helping Mothers Survive


We serve as the in-country contacts coordinating the "Helping Babies Breath, Helping Mothers Survive" courses that will be taught in a week.  We make all the in-country travel arrangements for the four American doctors and four Peruvian doctors teaching the courses, and we travel with them.  Part of this job involved shipping the course materials and mannequins to the two training sites up north (Huacho and Cajamarca).

Shown here are the 124 packages of materials we received (after waiting 2 month to get them cleared through Peruvian customs). This week we had to divide all the boxes, label them, and then ship them out to the two course sites. This was a huge job.

Receiving, sorting, and labeling course materials in the basement of our Area Office. We had to ship these out before the courses start in a week.

Each course will be presented to 50 doctors in each site. These courses are presented in different locations in Peru each year to reduce infant and maternal mortality in regions where they have experienced many deaths due to inadequate training and equipment.

We travel with the training team to these two sites to ensure everything goes smoothly, so we pack our bags for more travel. It sometimes feels like we spend as much time away from Lima as we do living here.

Course materials for the 'Helping Babies Breath' training. We also provide the ventilators shown here for each participant, along with training mannequins.

We will share more on this project as the courses unfold in the coming weeks.

Historic Central Lima


On our day off (Saturday) we returned to take in the sights around central Lima. 'Centro de Lima' is a UNESCO World Heritage site, given the many historical buildings built by the Spaniards during colonial times. It was a fun place to visit with friends from our Area Office.

Michael Trejo (who works with us in our Area Office) and his wife Nadia joined us in Central Lima. Shown here is Plaza Mayor with the central fountain and cathedral in the background.

Beautiful facade of one of the many colonial cathedrals in central Lima. 

In many respects, central Lima feels more Spanish than many places we have visited in Spain due to the carefully preserved architecture.

Spanish balconies and arched entryways show that this city was the Spanish capital of the New World.

Throughout central Lima are hundreds of beautiful buildings built by the rich of a by-gone era.

Sandy and Nadia Trejo in front of the Presidential Palace, the focal point of the Plaza Mayor.

The many colonial buildings remind us of being in Spain again - a beautiful, sunny spring day here in the Southern Hemisphere. By January this place will be too hot to enjoy..

Jiron de la Union, the main pedestrian street in central Lima - filled with crowds on the weekend.

Peruvian Soccer and the World Cup


Peru is a soccer-crazed country. They play soccer in every city park. Soccer games play continually on the television in every restaurant we have visited throughout the country. Soccer is like a second religion to most Peruvians.

The past months have been filled with soccer games as Peru competed to qualify for the World Cup of Soccer next year in Russia. The Peruvian team won their final game this week against New Zealand, and so, for the first time in 36 years, they are going to the World Cup. 

Lima exploded with celebrations all night long on Thursday after the win. Horns honked, sirens blared, and revelers took to the streets until sunrise. It was crazy!

Peruvian National Soccer Team - Moving on the World Cup in Russia next year.

On game days, millions of people throughout Lima (men, women, and children) dress in the uniform shirt - it is a sea of white and red everywhere. Even in our Area Office, with the hundred employees, perhaps half show up on game day in red and white.

I had to take this shot of our boss, Alex Principe, wearing his red-and-white headband on game days to show his patriotic support. We all thought it was pretty strange. I told Alex I was going to share this shot to show our families and friends the 'savages' with whom we work.

Alex - one of the soccer 'savages' with whom we work.

While I may not be the greatest soccer fan in the world, I have to admit that I started watching the qualifying matches on TV and getting into the excitement of it. If nothing else, it is endearing to see how seriously everyone takes the sport here. I felt 'half-Peruvian' by my involvement.


And so we begin another week of crazy activity leading up to our medical training trip in a week. 'Busy' seems to be the middle name of this humanitarian mission.