Thanksgiving in Peru, Panetón, and Biking around Lima

26 November 2017

Thanksgiving in Peru


This was our first Thanksgiving far from home. Peruvians in our area office made it a point to celebrate Thanksgiving with us so we would not feel bad about being away from family. Instead of calling it "Dia de Gracias" (day of thanks), they made us laugh by instead calling the holiday "Dia de Grazas" (day of fats, which sounds almost the same but may be a more correct description).

The day started out in our Area Office with a food celebration, including the apple strudel baked by Nadia Trejo (wife of Michael Trejo who we works with).

Thanksgiving in the Office - Apple Strudel, chips, cookies, Coke, and all our friends
(L to R: Sandy, Sister Lily Davalos, Alex Principe, Moroni Torres, Miguel Hurtado, Oscar Sanchez, Michael Trejo, and Marshall)

Apple Strudel - a great way to start Thanksgiving Day. 

Next stop on our food journey was a lunch trip to "El Llanero" restaurant ("The Lone Ranger") for some Venezuelan-Peruvian food. 

Thanksgiving lunch at the Venezuelan-Peruvian restaurant - Lomo Saltado (beef stirfry) and Chicken Milanese, not your typical turkey and stuffing diner, but very tasty.

Big Thanksgiving Dinner


That night, after work, we were invited to the home of President and Sister Amato, mission president of the Lima East Mission. They arrived a few months ago in Peru from Brazil (by way of Orlando, FL, where they had lived for 5 years). They invited more than 20 senior missionaries into their home for Thanksgiving dinner so we would all feel a little less homesick. We all brought side dishes and they cooked the turkeys and potatoes.

Sister Amato with the two turkeys she cooked for us - just like being back home.
Even the hors d'oeurves spoke to us of being back home.

Thanksgiving hors d'oeurves

What a crowd in the Amato's home for Thanksgiving dinner!

In all, for being halfway around the world, it was a good day for us.

Thanksgiving in Peru - We are most grateful we have this chance to serve.

3 Weeks of Travel - Humanitarian Projects


We continue to be super busy with more than 40 active humanitarian projects all around Peru. We travel all over Peru during the next 3 weeks for projects that include:
  • Conducting "Helping Babies Breath" / "Helping Mothers Survive" training courses for 100 doctors in the cities of Huacho and Cajamarca
  • Providing eye exams and glasses for about 1,000 children in the jungle city of Pucallpa
  • Completing the donation of school desks, water pump and tank, and clothing in an impoverished region near Nauta on the Amazon River
These next few weeks of travel will be very intense. It sometimes feels like Lima is just a layover point for us. We were glad we finished up all our project preparations this past week so we could focus on these back-to-back trips all around Peru.

Panetón - Holiday Celebration Food


In Peru, people celebrate the holidays and Christmas by eating Panetón. This is an Italian sweet bread that includes pieces of fruit. It is large - about the size of soccer ball.

Panetón is different than the typical solid fruit cake we have in North America. Although it includes dried fruit, the bread itself is light, spongy, and moist. It takes up to 3 days to make panetón because of the yeasts that are used in this traditional recipe and the multiple times that they let the bread rise.

Inside a loaf of panetón - spongy and light and filled with dried fruit. Our manager brought this loaf (about the size of a soccer ball) to share with us at the office.

Shelves in the grocery stores are stocked with more than a dozen varieties of this Christmas favorite treat. Peruvians start consuming Panetón about 2 months before Christmas.

Every store selling groceries sells many varieties of Panetón - the most popular holiday tradition in Peru.

Many panetónes come in cardboard boxes for safekeeping. This 900 gram (2 pound) loaf is typical.

Panetón also comes in small boxes - this one has chocolate chips instead of fruit.

Panetón is another yummy surprise we had never tried until coming to Peru. 

Biking around Lima


On our preparation day (Saturday), we love to travel cross town to the district of Miraflores and rent bikes. Now that the winter is finally over here in the Southern Hemisphere, we are enjoying sunshine while we bike our 9-mile loop through the city and along the coast.

Biking along the coast in the sunshine on our one day off that we get each week. 

We often stop along the way whenever we see something interesting. We stopped on this journey when I saw a tiny little Quechua Indian woman from high in the Andes selling her wares in the city park.

We stopped on our bike ride to buy some goods offered by this tiny little Quechua Indian woman. She only spoke a few words of Spanish - almost everything she spoke was in Quechua in a high-pitched, squeaky voice that sounded like she used helium to make her voice that high.

It is rare to find mountain people from the Andes who dress in traditional garb in the big city of Lima. These people are a few hundred miles from home, but they seem to come from worlds apart from the hustle-bustle fast-paced life of modern Lima.

I bought some "Kiwicha Balls" from the Indian woman. Kiwicha is a grain grown high in the Andes, similar to quinoa, which they pop and then mix with honey to form edible balls. The Kiwicha Balls were tasty but super hard - I felt like I was going to break a tooth eating one. I paid about $1 for a bag of five edible balls.

Kiwicha Balls - made from puffed kiwicha (similar to quinoa) and cemented together with honey.

Anyway, this tiny little Indian woman provided the cultural highlight of our day in the sun on our bikes.

Mazamorra Morada


Peruvians in our office are always telling us about tasty Peruvian treats we should be on the look-out to try.  One of these is called "mazamorra morada", a sweet purple corn pudding they sell at sidewalk stands around town.

The Mazamorra Morada stand where they sell the Purple Corn Pudding

We found a Mazamorra Morada stand today and ordered a bowl along with some rice pudding. Eating the Mazamorra Morada and the rice pudding reminded us of eating blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream.

A bowl of mazamorra morado - ready to take home and eat

The basic ingredient is purple corn, which is boiled with water, cinnamon, cloves, pineapple rind and chopped fruit, such as quince, plums and apples. Once the corn and other ingredients have passed their flavor to the water, they typically thinken with corn starch or sweet potato flour to give it the consistency of a really thick pudding. Then they sprinkle cinnamon and ground coconut on top. It is often served with rice pudding on the side.

Mazamorra Morada - it tasted like blueberry pie and vanilla ice cream.

A bowl of the mazamorra morada with a side of rice pudding sells for less than a dollar. It was a fun little treat.


So now the adventure of 3 weeks of non-stop travel begins for us as we journey to the northern coast, into the Andes Mountains, and into the jungle to finish up several of our big projects.


Glasses Delivery in Tarapoto, Medical Training Prep, Central Lima, and Soccer

19 November 2017

Glasses for Children in the Jungle


The final part of the Tarapoto vision project took place with the delivery of glasses for 791 children and adolescents in this high-jungle region. Deliveries took place all over the region in each of the schools for children that had been measured by our team of optometrists a few weeks ago.

Glasses lined up in front of students and parents waiting at one of the deliveries in the Tarapoto/Moyobamba area.

Mayors, government health leaders, and church leaders showed up for the deliveries in centers throughout the region. Carmen Tipian (shown here), our key health department contact and coordinator, addressed the parents and children at one of these deliveries.

The delivery ceremonies were key opportunities to pass out the glasses and stress proper care of the glasses to the parents and children (even though we had purposely bought scratch-resistant lenses, given how rough kids can be on their glasses).

Children were brought up one by one to get their glasses. Since we had already gone to the jungle on three previous trips, we asked our local church leader, Jimmy Guevara (right) to represent us at the ceremonies in both Tarapoto and Moyobamba.

The donation of glasses is a big deal in poor communities where just getting enough food onto the table at home is a challenge. Many of these children had prescriptions greater that 6 diopters (meaning they were functionally blind without the glasses). Being able to see for these children is a life-changing event.

These children will now be able to see the blackboard!
Poor vision is a leading cause for school dropout. When kids can't see in class, they fall behind, become discouraged, and look for excuses to dropout.

A child's first set of glasses - an exciting event.

The children had previously picked out their own frames from the selection we had our supplier bring. When kids pick out their own frames, they are more likely to actually wear their glasses.

Bringing all the optometrists into this jungle region from Lima to do the exams and then providing the glasses was a significant investment in the future for these children (although given the number of recipients that we had, we were able to negotiate really good prices - $25 USD total for an exam, frame, and lenses).

The glasses donations made it into the local  TV news programs and newspapers. This newspaper article put the donation on the front page, right next to the Peruvian national soccer team and the story of the body of the drug dealer found in the field of coca leaves. Our donation was big-time news in these communities.

This vision project in Tarapoto (the donation of glasses, the donation of medical equipment to the new hospital, and the cataract surgeries by the U.S. doctor) helped many people. It was one of the best projects we have worked on during our mission.

Farewell to the high-jungle of Tarapoto - the beauty of this region only added to the charm of this vision project.

Course Prep - Helping Babies Breath, Helping Mothers Survive


We serve as the in-country contacts coordinating the "Helping Babies Breath, Helping Mothers Survive" courses that will be taught in a week.  We make all the in-country travel arrangements for the four American doctors and four Peruvian doctors teaching the courses, and we travel with them.  Part of this job involved shipping the course materials and mannequins to the two training sites up north (Huacho and Cajamarca).

Shown here are the 124 packages of materials we received (after waiting 2 month to get them cleared through Peruvian customs). This week we had to divide all the boxes, label them, and then ship them out to the two course sites. This was a huge job.

Receiving, sorting, and labeling course materials in the basement of our Area Office. We had to ship these out before the courses start in a week.

Each course will be presented to 50 doctors in each site. These courses are presented in different locations in Peru each year to reduce infant and maternal mortality in regions where they have experienced many deaths due to inadequate training and equipment.

We travel with the training team to these two sites to ensure everything goes smoothly, so we pack our bags for more travel. It sometimes feels like we spend as much time away from Lima as we do living here.

Course materials for the 'Helping Babies Breath' training. We also provide the ventilators shown here for each participant, along with training mannequins.

We will share more on this project as the courses unfold in the coming weeks.

Historic Central Lima


On our day off (Saturday) we returned to take in the sights around central Lima. 'Centro de Lima' is a UNESCO World Heritage site, given the many historical buildings built by the Spaniards during colonial times. It was a fun place to visit with friends from our Area Office.

Michael Trejo (who works with us in our Area Office) and his wife Nadia joined us in Central Lima. Shown here is Plaza Mayor with the central fountain and cathedral in the background.

Beautiful facade of one of the many colonial cathedrals in central Lima. 

In many respects, central Lima feels more Spanish than many places we have visited in Spain due to the carefully preserved architecture.

Spanish balconies and arched entryways show that this city was the Spanish capital of the New World.

Throughout central Lima are hundreds of beautiful buildings built by the rich of a by-gone era.

Sandy and Nadia Trejo in front of the Presidential Palace, the focal point of the Plaza Mayor.

The many colonial buildings remind us of being in Spain again - a beautiful, sunny spring day here in the Southern Hemisphere. By January this place will be too hot to enjoy..

Jiron de la Union, the main pedestrian street in central Lima - filled with crowds on the weekend.

Peruvian Soccer and the World Cup


Peru is a soccer-crazed country. They play soccer in every city park. Soccer games play continually on the television in every restaurant we have visited throughout the country. Soccer is like a second religion to most Peruvians.

The past months have been filled with soccer games as Peru competed to qualify for the World Cup of Soccer next year in Russia. The Peruvian team won their final game this week against New Zealand, and so, for the first time in 36 years, they are going to the World Cup. 

Lima exploded with celebrations all night long on Thursday after the win. Horns honked, sirens blared, and revelers took to the streets until sunrise. It was crazy!

Peruvian National Soccer Team - Moving on the World Cup in Russia next year.

On game days, millions of people throughout Lima (men, women, and children) dress in the uniform shirt - it is a sea of white and red everywhere. Even in our Area Office, with the hundred employees, perhaps half show up on game day in red and white.

I had to take this shot of our boss, Alex Principe, wearing his red-and-white headband on game days to show his patriotic support. We all thought it was pretty strange. I told Alex I was going to share this shot to show our families and friends the 'savages' with whom we work.

Alex - one of the soccer 'savages' with whom we work.

While I may not be the greatest soccer fan in the world, I have to admit that I started watching the qualifying matches on TV and getting into the excitement of it. If nothing else, it is endearing to see how seriously everyone takes the sport here. I felt 'half-Peruvian' by my involvement.


And so we begin another week of crazy activity leading up to our medical training trip in a week. 'Busy' seems to be the middle name of this humanitarian mission.

Cataract Surgeries in Tarapoto, Cookout, and Birds of the Pantanos de Villa

12 November 2017

We spent time this week in the high jungle city of Tarapoto with the final part of the vision project. This project included: 1) exams and donations of glasses for 800 children, 2) donation of vision surgical equipment for the new hospital in Tarapoto, and 3) the visit by a US ophthalmologist to train b8 and perform cataract surgeries. This was the week for the surgeries.

Sunset over the new hospital in Tarapoto, the site of the donation of the surgical equipment and eye surgeries

Tarapoto - high jungle city in northern Peru

Cataract Surgeries and Training


This week was devoted to the visit and training course by an American ophthalmologist, Dr. Kyle Klingler, and his sister, Nurse Kailani Klingler Lee. Dr. Klingler gives his time as a volunteer several times each year to travel to poor countries teaching cataract surgical techniques and overseeing surgeries for the poor. We served as the in-country contacts coordinating the visit.

Arrival at the new Tarapoto Hospital (L to R) - Marshall, Dr. Kyle Klingler, and Nurse Kailani Klinger Lee. Note the two huge duffel bags they brought that were filled with donated surgical supplies.

If you have money in Peru, you go to private hospitals and clinics. But, if you are poor, you go to government hospitals, which many times lack essential equipment and services. Poor people with cataracts were previously referred to bigger hospitals in Lima, but they often could not afford the airline or bus tickets, so many just stayed in Tarapoto in their blind state. This project hopes to help reverse that by giving sight back to those that previously had no hope.

The visit included training to perform small-incision cataract surgeries (SICS), a preferred technique in areas of the world lacking resources. The students included three Peruvian ophthalmologists and two nurses. Although the doctors had all performed cataract surgeries previously, this is the first time these surgeries had been performed at this new government hospital in Tarapoto.

The course provided a review of techniques, along with hands-on practice before proceeding with the actual surgeries.

Dr. Kyle Klingler (who served a Portuguese-speaking mission as a young adult) taught the course in English. His sister Kailani, is a nurse and served as a translator during the course (she served as a Spanish-speaking missionary here in Peru, so she was a great help). 

Students included three Peruvian ophthalmologists - Dr. Villafuerte (left), Dr. Arevalo (right), and Dr. Fonseca (far right), plus the two nurses, Claudia and Veronica.

Classroom training took place during the first two days and included formal teaching and videos.

The hospital served lunch during one of the modules on 'complications during surgery'. Watching eye surgery videos while eating didn't seem to affect the doctors. But, for some reason, we couldn't finish our lunches!

On the first day they also held a formal delivery ceremony for all the surgical equipment we had donated a few weeks prior (ocular ultra-sound, tenometer, and other instruments). The press covered the event and, like always, I ended up being interviewed and on TV that night.

Dr. Arevalo, head of the ophthalmology department, spoke during the delivery ceremony / press conference regarding the eye surgery equipment we had donated (part of which is shown here). Also at the ceremony (behind Dr. Arevalo) was Jimmy Guevara, a local church leader, who had  accompanied us around the region on previous visits.

While class went on, we helped organize the surgical supplies that the Klinglers brought in their large duffel bags.

Before actual surgeries on patients, the Peruvian doctors practiced their skills by performing surgeries on pig eyes.

Dr. Klingler demonstrated first by performing surgery on the pig eyes. Each class member then followed.

Dr. Fonseca got her turn operating on the pig eye while Dr. Villafuerte observed.

The day of the surgeries arrived, and patients who had been pre-screened arrived for their surgery. Surgeries progressed daily for the three final days of the course with a total of 11 patients being treated during the week.

Cataract surgery in progress - Dr. Villafuerte assisted by Dr. Arevalo

One afternoon, we gathered at a viewpoint about two blocks from the hospital to enjoy the view. Tarapoto is in such a beautiful jungle setting, kind of like what you would expect in Hawaii.



Near the hospital in Tarapoto - Henries, Klinglers, and Dr. Villafuerte. On a final note, Dr. Villafuerte was hired by the hospital only a few months ago and is a member of our church. Whether his hiring was by coincidence or divine intervention, his presence made an enormous difference.

We pray this project will have a long-term impact and that many of those without sight will again have hope once their vision is restored.

Cookout with Friends


Napoleon Quispe (from the Area Office) and his wife Larysa invited us to their home last week for a cookout. We and a few other senior missionaries were invited. 

Napoleon is an incredible chef at the barbecue. I have never eaten so much meat in my life! It was a great way to spend a relaxing afternoon.

Napoleon Quispe - Master grill chef (and also the Purchasing Manager at the Area Office when he is not grilling)

Senior Missionaries at Napoleon and Larysa Quispe's home
(L to R) Elder & Sister Jones, Sister Toro/Elder Liebel, Napoleon Quispe, Sister Rosario, Larysa Quispe, Elder & Sister Henrie

We are grateful we have the chance to associate with such great people here in Peru.

Birds of a Feather - Pantanos de Villa Bird Refuge


Saturday, our day off, included a visit to the 'Pantanos de Villa' bird refuge. Located on the southern edge of Lima City in a district called Chorillos, this refuge is a marshland (or 'pantano' in Spanish) that the city has preserved as a refuge for an incredible number of bird species. Even though it is still in the city of Lima, this refuge feels like it is on the other side of the planet from Lima - quiet, peaceful, and totally wild. What a nice escape! (Sandy decided to take the day off to catch up on chores, so she stayed home while I went.)

I was invited to go with Jerry and Jeanne Dunn, senior missionaries in charge of recording church history in Peru. Jerry has been an avid bird enthusiast for years and was an excellent guide. His life list of birds before the visit included 1,998 species. He picked up three more species on this visit, putting him up to 2,001 birds. Hurray!

Pantanos de Villa - A series of ponds, marshes, and canals that is the home to tens of thousands of year-round and migratory birds. It is hard to believe this place is inside the city limits of Lima.

We hopped into a row boat for an up-close and personal tour. (L to R) Marshall, Jeanne Dunn, Augusto (the native guide), and Jerry Dunn.

I saw more bird species in this one day than I have ever seen at one time. Here are a few of the incredible birds I photographed on Saturday.

Andean Coot - the yellow forehead can range in color from white to beige.

American Oystercatcher - their long orange beak can be used to break open large shells. 

Great Egrets - tall and stately birds with beautiful white plumage. 

Pied Billed Grebe - found throughout North and South America.

Common Moorhen or Gallinule - the orange beak makes this bird really stand out.

Black Crowned Night Heron - this beautiful bird is found throughout the world.

Black Skimmers - these birds fly low over the water with their lower bill touching the water, skimming for fish. When they hit a fish, their upper bill slams shut on it and then they have their dinner.

Little Blue Heron - their deep-blue feathers make these birds look like they are covered in velvet.

Cinnamon Teal - this is a North American duck that winters here in South America. What a long migration!

Sanderlings (with American Oystercatchers behind) - Sanderlings breed north of the Arctic Circle and migrate over 6,000 miles to winter in Peru and Chile. Tens of thousands of these birds were on the beaches the day we went.
Snowy Egret - beautiful white bird with black beak and yellow feet.

Peruvian Pelicans - these birds are massive. When they fly, they look like small airplanes.

Many authorities believe Peru has more bird species than any other country in the world. With the Amazon Jungle, the Andes Mountains, and the desert coast, Peru is a prime place for bird watchers. I was glad I had Jerry Dunn with me on Saturday to tell me the names of all the birds I was photographing. My 'trigger finger' on my camera was sore by the end of the day!


And so we return to work on Monday to face another incredibly busy week. We currently have over 30 open projects that we are working. This is the busiest we have been in years!