Getting into Peruvian Life

26 February 2017

Humanitarian Services


We work inside the administrative area office of the LDS church for the northwest area of South America. Shown here is the Humanitarian Services office along with our Peruvian work director, Alex Principe, in the background. Most of our time so far has been spent in this office where we work at an often frantic pace.

Humanitarian Services office, Marshall and Sandy with
Alex Principe, Area Humanitarian Specialist

What do we do in the office? A mind-numbing host of activities to plan and execute humanitarian projects all over Peru including vision, wells for clean water, wheelchair donations and evaluator training projects, and coordinating ultrasound equipment donations to remote health clinics.

This mission has been one of the busiest things we have ever attempted.  After running around all day working these many projects, we are exhausted.

We walk to the Humanitarian Services office everyday - it's a quick 10-minute walk. On the way to the office is this incredible ceramic tile mural - an entire city block wide. The mural, made by local Peruvian artists, shows local scenes and neighboring churches.

Gigantic Ceramic Mural - One City Block Wide
La Molina, Peru


Home, Sweet Home


We live in a nice neighborhood in the La Molina suburb of Lima, about a half mile from the Area Office.  We are in the third floor apartment. Like all apartments in this area, there is a small parking area enclosed with a locked gate. Ours is a 3-bedroom, 2-bath apartment that takes up the entire floor. (Note the charged electric wires above the parking garage, designed to discourage thieves.)

Our Home in Lima (3rd Floor)

 Out And About


None of the senior missionaries are allowed to drive - it is far too dangerous with crazed drivers and cram-packed streets. So, we walk to the office (10 minutes), or we walk to the supermarket (20 minutes), or we take buses or taxis.

We often take buses on the weekends (our day off).  The buses are usually full of people but are fairly cheap.  Here is a shot of the bus we took yesterday, crammed with people. We were the only non-hispanics on the bus - it's hard to blend in when you're more than a head taller than most of the locals.

Riding the city bus in Lima, Peru

Shop till you Drop!


We walk a mile to the supermarket, then carry $100 worth of groceries back home.  We bought a cart to haul everything, then we walk the 20 minutes back to our apartment as we pull the little cart.

We cram $100 worth of groceries into this cart and then walk 20 minutes to get home.

Shopping at the little mom-and-pop shops is lots of fun, but for most of our grocery shopping, we go to the supermarket.  It is just like going to Super Walmart, except everything is in Spanish. Prices for any imported goods are about 6 times what they are in the USA, but local produce is super cheap.

Just like Super Walmart, but everything is in Spanish

Around Town


Walking around town has its advantages - we often come across scenes we would never see if we were driving behind the wheel.

Here are some young girls in a traditional folk dance at a performance with their teacher.  We just stumbled across this cute little show while walking to a crafts shop.

Cute entourage of girls performing folk dances

Strange Milk


In the USA, we always buy fresh, refrigerated milk. Not so in most of the world where milk goes bad quickly due to warm temperatures. This is the only thing we can buy here in Peru - boxed milk that stores on the shelf at room temperatures for 6 months. This milk is sterilized at ultra-high temperatures (called UHT), thus killing all the germs and allowing the long shelf life.  It doesn't taste as good as fresh milk in the USA, but it is all we have down here. Ah, the things we take for granted that are just not available throughout most of the world.

Non-refigerated Boxed Milk - Stored at Room Temperature

Fruit We've Never Seen Before


Aguaymanto, native to Peru, was new to us. It comes wrapped up like a gooseberry and is sometimes available in the USA under the name 'Picchu Berry' (named after Machu Picchu). This little delight has a burst of berry flavor.

Aguaymanto (or Picchu Berries) - a delightful burst of sweet flavor

Chirimoya, another native of Peru, looks like an artichoke on the outside, but inside it is a creamy white berry-flavored custard. Mark Twain called it a 'custard apple' and said it was his favorite fruit in the entire world. Even here, these are a little expensive but really delicious.

Chirimoya - a Creamy Berry-Flavored Custard Fruit

We Have to Try This Some Day


We snapped a shot of this delight yesterday - the waffle burger! So bizarre! We were full at the time, so we didn't stop to try it. We'll have to return some day and give this weird Peruvian burger a try!

Waffle Burger - I thought only Americans came up with this weird stuff!

And so we start another intense week of moving all our humanitarian projects toward completion. Thank goodness we still have enough health and strength to work at the pace that is required to keep up with this work.

Wheelchairs, Our Neighborhood, and More Great Food

19 February 2017

Wheelchair Donations & Training Courses


Next week we receive a shipment of about 1,000 wheelchairs, which will be donated to the poor.  We work with a local partner - the INR (Instituto Nacional de Rehabilitacion) - to screen recipients, evaluate their needs, and fit the chairs to them.  This partnership has worked well for several years. We have donated more than 3,500 wheelchairs through INR over the past 5 years, previous to this current shipment.

Here is a shot of the main INR facility we visited this week. We went to INR to coordinate several evaluator and maintainer courses we will be presenting with INR as part of the wheelchair donation. These courses will be taught high in the Andes, out in the Amazon jungle, and along the coast. 

Instituto Nacional de Rehabilitacion (INR) - Our key partner for Wheelchair Donations. 

Thousands of disabled persons come to this facility every day for assistance. Unfortunately, 2/3 of Peruvians live outside of Lima and don't have access to these facilities.  Therefore, we are working with INR to take our wheelchair donations to remote regions outside of Lima where many of those with the most needs will now be able to leave their homes.

Meeting with INR this week was a huge accomplishment because we confirmed commitments that 8 INR evaluators and 45 participants in three cities would be ready in time for the training courses.  In addition, we spent time this week out in the city putting together tool kit quotes to purchase the 45 tool kits for the course participants. More to come on this next month.

This is one of the three models of wheelchairs we provide.  Of the other two, one is suitable for use in an office, and the other, the 'rough rider', is for use on dirt roads found throughout the countryside.


Our Neighborhood


We finally got settled this week into our new apartment (we were in temporary housing at our temple apartments until this week). Our new apartment is on the 3rd floor and has three bedrooms, a nice kitchen, and a large common area. We are living in the La Molina suburb of Lima, a nice and and fairly secure neighborhood.

Here is a shot across the street from our front entry.  Note the similar house designs in this suburb. They each have tiny gated parking areas and a main floor (where the owner usually lives), along with upper floors for the apartments (each apartment consumes the entire floor). Entry to all of these is through locked gates. Most places have electric wires or barricades above the entry to keep out burglars.

View from our Apartment in La Molina suburb

This second shot is from our entry also, but shows a few other interesting things. Note the dog living on the neighbor's roof.  This is quite common in South America.  It is strange to be walking down the street and have a dog barking at you from overhead.

Our neighborhood in La Molina - note the dog on the roof, the guard shack, and the 'Pare' sign (which somehow doesn't mean 'stop')

Also, note the little guard shack near the intersection.  Most streets in this neighborhood have guards 24-hours/day that watch over the homes in the street.  They are called 'vigilantes' here in Peru, and they serve as eyes and ears to keep the area safe.  They collect about $5/month from each apartment dweller.

Finally, note the stop sign (called 'Pare'). Throughout Peru we have been amused to note that 'Pare' must mean something like 'slow down just a little'.  We NEVER cross a street with a Pare sign if there is a car coming because they always breeze right on through.

Chinese Restaurants in Peru? ('Chifas')


Due to the huge number of Chinese immigrants who came here over the past century, Chinese food has become part of Peruvian cuisine. In Peru, they call Chinese restaurants 'Chifas', and they are found everywhere.  There are over 6,000 Chifas in Lima alone. Within a 5-minute walk of our apartment are about 10 Chifas.

Chinese 'Chifa' restaurant near our apartment - one of about 10 nearby.

The food in the Chifas is superb and is an interesting fusion of Chinese and Peruvian flavors. Best of all, Chifas offer a good restaurant meal at super-cheap prices.  Shown below is a typical Chifa menu. Main items are chaufa (fried rice), plus beef, chicken, and noodle dishes. Divide the prices shown here by 3 (which is the exchange rate) and you will see that you can get a nice sitdown restaurant meal (including soup and a drink) for $3 to $4. Incredible!

Great food and super-cheap prices at the local Chifa restaurant (divide the prices by 3 to get the equivalent cost in US dollars). This is one of about 10 in our neighborhood out of the estimated 6,000 total in Lima.


Peruvian Stuffed Potatoes - 'Papas Rellenas'


One of our favorite foods here is the Peruvian stuffed potato - called 'Papas Rellenas'. One small restaurant down the street sells only papas rellenas and nothing else. They start with any number of tasty meat fillings, wrap mashed potatoes round the filling, then deep-fat fry the whole thing. They are soooo tasty, we could eat them every day!

Papas Rellenas (stuffed potatoes) - spicy chicken (L) and beef (R)


Chicha Morada - Drink of Peru


The national drink of Peru is called 'Chicha Morada' and is available almost everywhere. It is made with the purple corn (maiz morada) that is available, again, almost everywhere.  Giant supermarkets to little corner stores, everyplace sells the purple corn that is the main ingredient in the drink.

Purple corn available at any store to make Chicha Morada

Making the drink is an easy process.  You just throw some ears of purple corn into a pot, along with some pineapple rinds, apples, cinnamon stick, and cloves, then boil it for 10 minutes, and you have a very tasty and healthy drink.

Chicha Morada. Just throw in purple corn, pineapple rinds, apples, cinnamon, and cloves, then boil for 10 minutes.

The actual Chicha Morada drink is a very dark purple, very fruity tasting, and is available in most restaurants, shops, and convenient stores all around Peru.  Here is a photo showing what the final dark-purple product looks like. Delicious and so refreshing!

Chicha Morada - Purple corn drink found all over Peru

So it is back to the Area office for us tomorrow as we make a mad rush to finish all the many tasks required to complete the wheelchair project.  This is an exciting but sometimes exhausting experience! 

Humanitarian Mission - Overview

February 12, 2017

We are based in the Peruvian Area Office for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.  About 100 full-time church employees and volunteer missionaries work along with us in this beautiful (and air conditioned) facility on the eastern edge of the city in the La Molina suburb. We work in the office and arrange humanitarian projects when we are not out working on actual projects somewhere in the Peruvian countryside.

Church Area Office, Lima, Peru (our home-base for project operations)

Our area covers the five countries of Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia (although we work just in Peru).  Like us, other sets of full-time volunteer humanitarian missionaries are assigned to each country.

We arrived in Peru just in time to replace the couple who preceded us (the Merrills from Washington state). They, like us, were on an 18-month mission. We only had 1-1/2 days of overlap with the Merrills before they went home.  Thank goodness we have two full-time Peruvian church employees (Area Humanitarian Welfare Manager and a Welfare Specialist) who work with us to guide in the projects we are carrying on.  Here is a shot of the going-away cake for the Merrills on their last full day with us.

Farewell for the Merrills, our predecessors.
(L to R) Moroni Torres, Area Humanitarian Manager;
Rob & Mary Merrill, departing Humanitarian Missionaries;
Alex Principe, Area Humanitarian Specialist


Current Disaster Response - Floods & Mudslides


Just before we arrived, many places around Peru were hit with rain (a rare phenomenon in our super arid coastal regions).  Whole villages were wiped out due to the floods and mudslides that ravaged many areas.

Map of Peru showing major centers of floods and mudslides that have recently damaged or destroyed villages.

News photo showing damage from Peruvian flood disasters

Most of the humanitarian staff have worked over the past few weeks in distributing food, water, medicines, mattresses, and other emergency supplies to the most-affected areas all around Peru. The majority of the disaster relief is now under control, but we will be deeply involved during the next disaster, likely to be relief activities associated with an earthquake (which happens here frequently).

Humanitarian Activities - Summary


We have about 30 projects underway throughout Peru in the following areas:

  • Wheelchair Projects - We have donated over 3,500 wheelchairs to the poor over the past 8 years with 1,000 more wheelchairs due in to arrive in Peru this month.
  • Vision Projects - We provide free vision correction and cataract surgery for the poor. We serve as in-country coordinators for upcoming projects when doctors arrive from the USA.
  • Clean Water Initiatives - Wells and water systems are provided to very poor villages with about 20 wells currently in various phases of installation, mainly in jungle regions.
  • Maternal Care and Neo-Natal Resuscitation - We have upcoming projects to provide training and equipment in hospitals and clinics all around Peru to save lives of mothers and newborns.
  • Vaccination Campaigns - We provide supplies and volunteers to support major vaccination campaigns.
  • Emergency Response -  Similar to the flood disaster relief mentioned above, we work with local communities in providing food, water and other supplies during disasters that frequently occur here.
Sounds like a lot, doesn't it? This is going to be a very busy mission for us!






More First Impressions

February 8, 2017

Miraflores by the Sea


Miraflores, with its cliffside perch and views of the ocean, is not actually the location for any of our humanitarian projects, but it makes a nice getaway on our weekend preparation day.

Miraflores by the sea - a nice weekend escape (but not a place for any of our humanitarian activities)

Glass & Crazy Wires


Lima is such a place of contrasts - glass-covered skyscrapers and yet evidence the country is still emerging economically.  I love this scene, found all over town - glass buildings, so modern and new, with tangles of wiring overhead. Maybe the wiring is meant to help secure buildings during the next earthquake!
Modern Lima Buildings surrounded with crazy tangles of wiring

Ruins Everywhere


Peru is covered from top to bottom with some of the most fabulous ruins in the world (although most of us only know of Machu Picchu). Even here in Lima, ruins are found all around the city.  Any hill in town is usually the covered remnants of an ancient civilization.  It is common to build city parks next to partially excavated ruins, like what is shown here at a park called 'Huaca Melgarejo', just a short walk from our apartment. Children run through the grass and adults play soccer right next to these partially excavated ancient cities made of dried mud bricks.

Huaca Melgarejo ruins - in a city park near our apartment. These ruins are about 5 stories tall.

Huaca Melgarejo ruins are typical of those found all over Lima and throughout Peru. 

Peruvian Food


'Causa' - Food for the Cause


Peruvian cuisine is regarded among the best in the world. The mix of flavors (though not too overpowering) are delicious (although we usually add a bit of spice just to increase the heat).

During one of the wars with Chile years ago, soldiers would march to war and stop at villages along the way for food. Even though times were tough, the locals always made a potato dish for the soldiers to support the cause (or 'causa' in Spanish). And thus a national dish was born, called 'Causa' with cold mashed potatoes in a variety of colors wrapped around something like chicken salad. You can order this tasty meal in every restaurant we have visited so far.

'Causa' - A national favorite served everywhere in Peru

Granadilla Fruit


Exotic tropical fruits are available everywhere here - most of which are too perishable to be shipped to the USA. Here is a real interesting one called 'granadilla'.  The fruit is about the size of an orange but with the most yummy ooey-gooey flesh with a taste that reminds us of orange marmalade with little crunchy seeds. It is so juicy you have to peel open the skin and eat the flesh with a spoon.

Granadilla - so juicy you have to eat it with a spoon!

Aji (ah-HEE) Chilis


We love Mexican food, so we were afraid that moving to Peru would leave us without spicy things to eat. However, we have found a few killer chiles here.  Every restaurant serves a salsa of a chile called 'aji', which can range from mild to super hot.  Here is a shot of a bunch of aji chiles from the local grocery store - a colorful array of excellent fire and spice!

Aji Chile Peppers - Peru's answer to the Jalapeno

This Little Piggy


We went shopping in a grocery store here. This is what I found in the frozen food section - a little frozen piggy! Yummy! This little piggy went to market (but this little piggy should have stayed home)!

Piggy - A Local Favorite called Lechon

Arrival in Peru

February 3, 2017

Into Peru


After two long flights (Salt Lake City to Dallas and Dallas to Lima), we finally made it to Peru! We were a little bleary-eyed after the all-night flight and had to take a little nap once we got to our apartment.

Now arriving in Lima - two jet-lagged Americans with 280 points of luggage!

We can't believe all the luggage we had to bring. Between us, we had 200 pounds of checked luggage and 80 pounds of carry-on. Previous to coming here, we have been able to live for a month with just carry-on luggage, but this 18-month mission to Peru required that we haul all sorts of things we would never have brought except that they were impossible to buy here or were super expensive (vitamins, hair care and make up, lots of clothes, boots for working in tough places, etc.)

Another senior mission couple, Jerry and Jeri Prince from Canada, came to the airport to pick us up in a van.  Thank goodness they were here.  It was giving us a heart attack to move our luggage!

At the Lima, Peru, Airport
Left: Jerry & Jeri Prince, Right: Sandy & Marshall Henrie


La Molina - Our Home Base


Here is a shot of the 'La Molina' suburb of Lima where we are going to live.  It is about 15 miles east of downtown Lima, an upscale part of the city that will be our home base. The road shown here is a freeway that suddenly turns into a city street and is always jam-packed with cars.

Avenida Javier Prado, the main road into La Molina - our new home base

Our real apartment won't be ready for a week, so we moved into a temporary place right next to our temple here in Lima. This is a shot from the window of the apartment across the hall from us. It shows how close we are living to the temple. Angel Moroni is on the steeple, watching over us every night.

Lima, Peru, Temple,
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints

Temperatures here in Lima (summer time in the Southern Hemisphere) are so much hotter than last week's tundra conditions in Utah.  We have been sweating since we got off the plane!

Miraflores, Preparation Day by the Sea


For our first preparation day (which happened to be the day after we arrived), we were able to escape some of the heat by taking a taxi with the Princes (the couple who picked us up from the airport) to the nearby suburb of Miraflores.  Miraflores  (which means "Look at the Flowers") is right on the ocean and was slightly cooler than where we are staying. Here is a shot in Miraflores at the Larcomar Mall. Larcomar is built right into the cliffs overlooking the ocean, seen in the background. Note that the top of the mall, because it is built into the cliffs, is below street level. You can't see this open-air mall from the street as you drive by - you have no idea it is there until you walk up to the edge and look down.

Larcomar Center in Miraflores suburb


Lomo Saltado - Jumping Meat


Local food here in Lima has been superb. Here is a shot of one of our first restaurant meals - a local traditional food called 'loma saltado'.  It is a delicious mix of sliced beef tenderloin and vegetables with incredible seasonings. Lomo saltado literally translates to 'jumping meat' - an interesting way to describe stir fry! The dish of yellow sauce at the top is called 'salsa de aji' (ah-HEE) and is very tasty and spicy in a non-Mexican sort of way.  Total cost for the two plates, plus drink and tip in a nice restaurant: $10.89.  Incredible!

Lomo Saltado (traditional Peruvean Stir Fry) - dinner for two plus drink & tip was $10.89!

Inca Cola - Peruvian Craze


Now, this wouldn't be Peru without their favorite soft drink - found everywhere we go: Inca Cola. This day-glow yellow drink is available in every restaurant, shopping center, and mom-and-pop corner store throughout Peru.  Locals say they drink it with all of their traditional meals (as opposed to Coke, which they only drink with modern meals like hamburgers). And the taste? Sandy describes its flavor as "Double-Bubble bubble gum in a bottle"! That is actually a pretty fair description!

Inca Cola - the favorite in Peru for 80 years!
The flavor of Double-Bubble bubble gum in a bottle!

And so we begin our official mission activities on Monday when we go to the area office to meet our humanitarian leaders and assume our official roles.  We are excited to actually be here in Peru at the beginning of this great adventure in service.